The Abode of Gods ( Part 6- Kedarnath)

 

The journey from Badrinath to Kedarnath commenced when the flakes of first snow were trickling from the October sky. The early snowfall is a rare occurrence but the beauty of watching this spectacle is difficult to describe in words.. The winds picked up and soon the sky cleared as the bus started the descent trough the undulations in the hills.

At  the Gauri temple at Gaurikund

The distance of approximately 230 km would have taken about 8 hours so we were all braced up for another long journey. The immense beauty of the snow covered peaks , coniferous and pine trees and stray melodies of the birds during the journey made the distance appear like listening to a song.. After about three hours the bus arrived at Rudraprayag. It was a time for a break to stretch the legs. From here onwards the route was  unfamiliar terrain and the beauty of small towns like Augstmuni, and Guptkshi were an absolute treat. By the time we reached Gaurikund,the final destination , the sun was setting. We were fortunate to find shelter for the night at GMVN Guest House, which was comfortable. Very close by there was a hot water spring where we decided totake a dip. It was so refreshing that the tiredness that  had set in just vanished. We had a simple dinner and dozed off quickly.

At hot water spring at Gaurikund

The next morning, I got up early to the chimes of the bells from nearby Durga( Gauri)  Mandir. I took a dip once again, and we visited the temple and offered our prayers. We were all set to go on the long 14 hour trek to one of the most difficult stretches with hardly any other travellers. We were unaware of the vagaries of the weather or the terrain. My seven year old daughter who was undertaking this long trek was thoroughly excited.

En route on 14 km trek to Kedarnath  my companions, daughter and wife

The climb got more and more difficult as we continued our journey on trek. After about two hours we stopped at a shanty for a cup of tea and after a brief rest started yet again. Some times the showers came and forced us to take shelter under the overhang of rocks. After about six hours of climbing the last stretch was extremely tough. The frozen rivulets of stream had wet our socks and shoes and my daughter was struggling. Just before we were about to run out of steam we could see the Kedarnath town and the temple at a distance. With all our last stock of energy we arrived at the town and immediately found a place for the overnight stay.We requested for a bucket of hot water especially for our daughter whose feet were almost numb from the cold. It was a very fdifficut trek and far more strenuous than our daughter had undertaken the previous yea,r when we had gone to Rameswaram and Dhanushkoti.

The Kedarnath shrine

Kedaarnath is one of the holiest shrines dedicated to the Lord Shiva and is perched at an altitude of 3583 m .The shrine is almost a thousand years old. The temple is built on a 6 ft high platform and just outside the main entrance there is a statue of the bull-Nandi. The temple also happens to be one of the Jyotirlingas. The temple is flanked by snow capped peaks all around. 

At the Kedarnath shrine after prayers to Lord Shiva

We visited the temple and it was one of the most enriching soul stirring experience. Never, had I imagined that I would be here one day with my family.  We later explored the tiny townthat had very few shops and small hotels. 

 The next day we started our downward descent of the 14 km trek back to Gaurikund. The journey on return was a bit easier but treacherous all the same as there were no clear defined pathways. Fortunately, it did not rain on the way back. It was very satisfying to reach back Gaurikund. 

Next day we proceeded to Rishikesh and our mesmerizing  adventurous trip had come to an end. The memories stay despite the passage of time as fresh as if it had happened yesterday

PS- This journey was undertaken in Oct 1992 so all images have been digitally enhanced

2. Route map - Kind courtesy Google

The Abode of Gods (Part 5-Badrinath)

 

Route Map of Badrinath

At daybreak,  Rishikesh was slightly chilly in the month of October! The air was fresh and the crystal clear water of Ganga at Muni Ki Reti, seeped in tranquillity when we boarded the bus heading to Badrinath. It is almost a 300 km distance. We had to break the journey as it would take nine hours, which would be strenuous at a single stretch. After crossing Shivpuri the ascent started getting steeper. The views of lush green mountains, and cold winds were inviting. The cascading Ganga is a sight from which it is difficult to look away, After almost three hours the bus halted at Devprayag, where we had a sumptuous breakfast at a small stall that overlooked the river thundering below at an incredible pace.

The Neelkanth Peak at Badrinath

The journey continued through the day along some of the most memorable stretches through small hamlets and towns like Srinagar, Karnprayag,Rudraprayag and Gauchar till it was almost sunset. We alighted at Chamoli for the halt at night. While I was still looking around at a few small shops, I spotted an Army jeep where a jawan was loading some vegetables. On enquiry, he revealed that he had come from an Army Transit Mess nearby to buy some groceries. I disclosed my identity as a man in a uniform like him. He readily offered my family and me a lift to the tiny mess a little distance away. The Subedar Major was kind and helped us with accommodation, The food was simple daal and roti with a cup of tea. At that hour it all seemed heavenly after a long journey. The next morning we boarded a bus again heading to Badrinath. As the day was breaking we could see the mighty snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas at a great distance as these peeked from the dense foliage The bus slowly trudged, often panting due to the stress on the engine. We passed by Nandprayag, Pipalkoti and Gopeshwar to arrive at Joshimath. The unhindered views of the Himalayas now were a treat that we had been waiting for. The small roadside Dhaba offered the most succulent 'aloo paratha' and chai that we had tasted lately. Around, lunchtime we reached Badrinath.  The sight of the two snow-covered peaks of Nar and Narayan said to be the dual forms of Lord Vishnu as referred to in religious texts was an awesome sight. The Neelkanth peak in another direction gave us a feeling that we have literally landed in heaven. In the vicinity was a PWD Guest House, which after a little coaxing, the caretaker agreed to give us for the night.

The Badrinath Temple

Badrinath temple has been in existence since the 7th century and has seen calamities like rains, earthquakes, landslides and more and has been razed down several times to be rebuilt again, It is said that the Pandavas after the victory in the war with Kauravas had come to exile in this region and slowly left for their heavenly abode.

My daughter at the PWD Guest House Badrinath

We refreshed ourselves in the hot spring known as 'Tapt Kund' which was  refreshing after a long journey, The tiredness that had set in just vanished in a jiffy. We visited the beautiful Badrinath temple, where the priest offered us Badri/ Tulsi/Basil leaves as the 'prasad'. We were blessed to have reached the place to meet the divinity. It was a surreal experience.

My daughter and I at the Badrinath town

The dome of the temple is almost 50 feet tall with a small cupola on the top, covered with a gold gilt roof. A broad stone stairway with an arched doorway and majestic windows forms the imposing facade. The architecture also resembles a Buddhist vihara with brightly coloured walls, a feature of Buddhist temples. The main hall or the ' Garbhgraha' has a large stone pillared hall. The shrine remains closed for almost six months of winter as it remains inaccessible due to hostile weather.

It was an experience of a lifetime to have a brush with divinity ensconced in the high Himalayan reaches, The next morning we were ready to head back to Gaurikund for the next adventure.

PS- This trip was undertaken in Oct 1992 so all images have been digitally enhanced.

The Abode of the Gods ( Part 4- Narayan Ashram)

 

Route Map from Dharchula to Narayan Ashram on Kailash Mansarovar Route

Seldom does it happen that trekking goes unrewarded? More so when one is exploring the uncharted routes not frequented by many. My family and I was  trekking in Pithoragarh, in Uttranchal district a few years back. The place is endowed with a generous bounty of nature. It lies ensconced in the centre of the Soar Valley which resembles Kashmir on a miniature scale. It is dotted with pretty villages around its periphery. While exploring the town we walked into the tourist office and came to learn about Narayan Ashram, a small hamlet en route to Kailash Mansarovar yatra. Dharchula is the nearest foothill before the arduous climb for the yatra begins and is around 90 km from Pithoragarh.

The scenic beauty of Dharchula to Narayanashram

The way from Pithoragarh to Dharchula is alongside the river Kali and is a 3 to 3.5-hour journey. The chief modes of transportation are private jeeps and state government buses. The air is filled with the aroma of trees of Oak, Pine, Apple and Deodar as the bus climbs up laboriously. After arriving at Dharchula, we rested for the night.

The Narayan ashram

The next day we started the ascent to Narayan Ashram which is about 14 km from Dharchula, at a height of 2734 m. The climb through the steep rocky terrain was tiring. Sometimes the boulders are so dangerously perched that one wrong step could result in a disaster! The reward for the climb is an unparalleled view of the rising mountains and pristine air and the sight of small rivulets descending down the hills. There are no human habitations except a small village where few people stay. The sun had set when we reached the Ashram, and the fog was slowly setting in. Just as we reached the ashram, the fog cleared and what we saw was an ' absolute heaven'. A lush green haven with a meditation centre, gardens and a stream of crystal clear water, quietly rumbling by

We were unexpected visitors but were greeted by a man with a flowing beard. He took us to meet ‘Mataji’ who was delighted to see us. She was dressed in a white sari and her head was covered. She had a diminutive stature. The hunchback was very prominent and her body was arched. The face had a few wrinkles and the eyes were deep set. She had an expression of unbound love. ‘Mataji’ as everyone addressed her, must have been more than eighty years old.

She told us to take a quick wash and invited us to join her for dinner. It was a simple meal comprising of roti and sabzi. It was more satiating than a four-course meal, after spending the entire day in climbing the hills to reach Narayan Ashram. She offered us the place to settle down for the night and provided the bedding as well. We were dead tired and soon slept off.

The next morning we went around the ashram. It was a sheer visual delight, with a splendid view. All vegetables were grown at the ashram and it was self-sufficient. There was a hall for meditation. The ashram was built with a mix of ‘mud and urd dal’ in 1936. Mataji was a retired Inspector of Schools in UP and the man with the flowing beard we had met the previous evening was a microbiologist from the USA who had settled down there. Around 15 people were staying there and were mostly scholars!!

Mataji offered us tea and ‘upma’ prepared by her as we bid goodbye to start our return journey. It was a heavenly experience and sheer bliss to have travelled to this uncharted destination and will remain etched in memory forever

PS All pictures kind courtesy Google

The Abode of Gods- (Part 3) Kinner Kailash

 

The Majestic Mount Kinner Kailash

The mountains have a way of rewarding the climbers even if they are novices, in their own ways. A bus trip from Shimla to Kinnaur valley undertaken way back in October 1994, was also no less enchanting. 

Route map from Shimla to Reckong Peo

We had boarded a bus in the wee hours of the morning from Shimla headed for Reckong Peo, almost 200 km away through the mountainous terrain. The drive to Kufri was full of scenic beauty. 

At the Central Potato Research Institute, Kufri(plantation in the background)

We halted briefly to explore the Central Potato Research Institute. We were awe-struck to see the cultivation of over 500 varieties of potatoes on the slopes of the hills.  The journey continued and the climb became more treacherous through winding narrow roads which would at one moment drive almost on the edge of narrow cliffs and at another moment take us to jaw-dropping heights where the heart would miss a beat, the moment you looked out below. The stream of thundering River Sutlej was our companion along with pine trees till the terrain changed to barren lands and cacti from Rampur Bushair onwards. 

At the Cholling Nala, Karcham

We passed by the small township of Bhabha Nagar known for the Hydel project and Tapri. As we neared Cholling Nala at Karcham it was almost sunset, and our bus came to a grinding halt. The driver pointed at a truck laden with goods that had broken down at the mouth of the narrow road blocking the incoming and outgoing traffic. We waited for some time watching huge lizards crawling on the rocks, but soon anxiety took over. How, will we pass the night in the middle of nowhere with our little daughter without food. Then I sighted a soldier and an Army Captain a little distance away. On enquiry, I learnt that he was headed to his unit a little distance away on the other side of the road. I introduced myself and he was happy to assist us and took us with our belongings in his jeep. The camp commandant was a Major and was delighted to meet my family. He arranged a small log cabin for us with hot water to refresh ourselves. Soon a hot dinner was arranged, and we returned to our cabin and fell on the bed. 

At the Reckong Peo Market- notice Mt Kinner Kailash in the backdrop

The next morning as I lifted the curtain, I saw the majestic Mount Kinner Kailash covered with snow staring back at me. The beauty of nature was at its best. It was an unforgettable sight, and I could not resist waking my wife and daughter to soak in the beauty. A short distance away was a small stream and on the other side, River Sutlej flowing with a roar despite being narrow. At breakfast, the Major told us that we could stay for as long as we wanted at the place. An offer so irresistible, that we decided to stay on. 

The locals at Sangla

For the next two days, we explored the beauty of places like Paori, Sangla, Kigli and Reckong Peo. We also trekked to Kamru’s  Fort situated at a height of 2600m  in Sangla, a majestic place in the midst of solitude. 

Kamru Fort in Sangla

The remarkable wooden structure has an idol of Kamakhya Devi( Kamakshi Devi). It was worth seeing and it is believed that the idol was brought from Kamakya Temple in Guwhati, one of the Shaktipeeth! There is also a Badrinath temple situated inside the Kamru Fort, where a fair is held once in three years to honour the deity. The ultimate reward on the return trip from the trek were miles of apple orchards and  the locals gifted us a bagful of these ! Equally, juicy mammoth pears grow in the area. On return from Sangla, we had a company of a flock of sheep that also entered the bus, a truly cattle class experience!

With the Army Bravehearts in Matiana

We stayed for two nights at the Army Mess in Paori which was a short distance away from Karcham. It had some amazing untouched scenic views. We also went for a day trip to Reckong Peo about 20 km away. The local market was interesting and the towering peaks of Kinner provided a staggering view.

How the time flew and it was time to pack the bags and plan for the return trip. We halted at an Army unit at Matiana and were treated to Poori and Aloo with piping hot tea, an unforgettable treat.

I will recount some more of such stunning experiences that I consider rare gifts I am  bestowed with

PS- 1.All pictures are mine and digitally recreated

2. Route map kind courtesy Google

The Abode of Gods( Part-2)- Gangotri

 

The Route map of Gangotri

The climb of the bus from Lanka to Bharionghati was a steep one and we could feel that the engine was under tremendous strain. We had been driving for more than six hours, since we had left Hanumanchatti and come to Dharasu. The scenic views of the lush green mountains with an occasional glimpse of the snow-clad peaks were soothing to the eyes. There was virtually no traffic except for an occasional bus, or a taxi. We had passed the little townships of Netala, Purali and some more before we reached Harsil. Harsil resembles Switzerland in many ways with deep ravines, meadows and beautiful snow-covered Himalayas at a distance. We instantly made up our minds to stop over at the place on return, without knowing much about the place.

The holy shrine at Gangotri

As we were excited to reach the destination, a short distance away, the bus was filled with smoke. The driver tried to halt but the smoke became unbearable. Then someone lifted the bonnet and pulled out the wire connecting the battery and there was a flash. Luckily there was no fire, but the engine had become unbearably hot and despite the warning from the radiator temperature indicator, the driver had apparently ignored it. We waited for over an hour till the engine cooled down and the radiator was filled with water from a nearby stream, to continue the last leg of the journey.

On the trek to Gaumukh, the temple cave visible at a distance

A little shaken we arrived at Gangotri township, as the sun was about to set. Thankfully we did not have to do any trek and found a place for the overnight stay. Gangotri looked very serene ensconced with mountains all around. We slept off after dinner and the next day woke up to the beautiful sight of a long trail heading to Gaumukh, the origin of River Ganga. The deep gurgling sound of the river Ganga flowing very close was melody to the ears. The water was so clear that we could see the stones and pebbles under the clear stream. After a  quick change, we headed to the beautiful temple of Gangotri to offer our prayers. According to mythology King Bhagirath an ancestor of Lord Rama had worshipped Lord Shiva at this spot for a long time before he agreed to bring River Ganga on his hair from the heaven, to reduce the impact of fall. The river Ganga is also called Bhagirithi for this reason. A temple was built in the eighteenth century at this spot.

After visiting the temple we sat by the side of the river and then decided to climb the trail leading to Gaumukh. It was a long 17 km trek and after about six kilometres of climb, we could sight Gaumakh at a great height of 3400 m. The trek was difficult and tiring, so we decided to turn back. It was a rewarding day as we had seen a lot in the last 24 hours. Later in the evening we spent some time admiring the beauty of the river and the temple till it got cold and the winds became stronger.

A view of the Himalayas from Harsil

The next morning we left by bus for Harsil which was about 25 km away. In less than two hours we reached the small town with hardly any people and a few shops. After checking out, I came across Garwhal Scouts ( An Army unit). The Officer in charge was kind to accommodate us in the Officer's Mess there. It was a beautiful place with breathtaking views all around.  While exploring the place we were caught amidst a flock of hundreds of sheep as if we were on a mission to hunt the wolf disguised as a sheep. A beautiful experience beyond words.

Caught amidst a flock of sheep at Harsil

The next day we started our return journey, which would have been incomplete without a stopover at Rishikesh. 

The famous Chotiwala restaurant at Rishikesh

We enjoyed the lovely delicacies at the famous ‘ Chotiwala’ restaurant in the holy town

At the The Ramjhoola at Rishikesh

The Itinerary as planned in June 1997

The nostalgic memories of the trip that was undertaken in June 1997 are as fresh as if they happened yesterday . I have dug into my treasure trove of pictures to share some of these memories, so that, the readers can also get the feel of the place. I am also attaching the itinerary as I had planned, from my archives and though a bit mutiliated  is  still readable!The adventures to more destinations will continue in the next posts

PS: 1. All the pictures are mine

      2. Route Map of Gangotri kind courtesy Google

The Abode of Gods ( Part-I)- Yamunotri

 

The route map of Yamunotri

The last peak had just come in sight as soon as we cleared the hill that we had been trudging for almost six hours with brief moments of respite. We had started soon after having a cup of tea in the shanty stall by the small dusty track at Naradchatti on way to Jankichatti. It was a clear day with cold winds blowing from the snow-covered peaks, which were visible at a distance. A small village 

Onward ascent to  Yamunotri -At Jankichatti

Hanumanchatti, located on the confluence of the rivers Hanuman Ganga and Yamuna is 13 kilometres from Yamunotri at the foothills. It was our overnight halt before taking on the arduous climb to Yamunotri. 

As the day broke we left Hanumanchatti for the trek to Yamunotri by crossing a small wooden bridge.. We had covered almost three kilometers by climbing the hills and admiring nature’s beauty in abundance when we halted at Naradchatti at a small shanty by the dusty path,. We ordered the tea  and aloo paratha and after enjoying the nice breakfast as we stood to pay, the plank on which my wife and I stood creaked and gave way. In a flash we both landed almost 7 m below, in the ravine, that stored husk  which softened the landing. So we were generally unharmed and escaped narrowly. The experience had shaken us but did not deter us, to continue unfazed. We trudged through icy rivulets .steep gradients and braving the  cold winds with brief halts at Jankichatti to reach Yamunotri. The last one kilometer was a very steep climb and exhausting. It was dark so we had a quick bite and covered ourselves in layers of blanket to catch some sleep.

 

The Source of River Yamuna at Yamunotri

The next morning, the body was still stiff but the view outside was the reward that we had been waiting for. The sight of River Yamuna, trickling from its source from the ice glacier formation with the golden rays of the morning sun still remains etched in my mind. A dense formation of water vapour over the source of Yamuna was an indication of a spring in the vicinity and a dip in these spring water is not only threaupatic but also revitalizing.  The next day we made a return trek retracing our route back to Hanumanchatti all set for yet another adventure. When we passed by the shanty shop where we had a mishap the earlier day, the folks at the tea stall clapped and cheered us

At the temple of Yamunotri

I will recount some more of such stunning experiences that I consider rare gifts I was bestowed with. The trips to the hills are some of the most treasured moments and with the passage of time still make the memories vivid with old photographs

PS: All pictures are mine. This trip was undertaken in June 1997 so most of the pictures have been digitized

2. The Route map is kind courtesy Google

An Unusual Market- Marsaxlokk ,Malta

A place with an unusual name is best known for the sea delights, small colourful boats, tiny houses in the vicinity, smell of fish and quaint shops. The market comes to life on Sunday mornings. It is located on the tip of the Maltese archipelago and is 12.5 km from the capital city Valletta. It is also known as the 'Fishing village of Malta'.

After learning about the place we were excited to visit this unusual destination as we were staying in Valletta. So, early on a Sunday morning, we came to the bus stop which was just a short walk from our place of stay. The bus ride on route 81 reminded me of the scramble for buses in Delhi where sometimes the long wait for the bus leads to building up rush! The bus was crowded but comfortable and the route was scenic. Little towns of Floriana, Marsa, Tarixen, Zejtun that passed en route gave a glimpse of the countryside, the lush green fields and an occasional glimpse of the deep blue sea. After almost an hour we reached the seafront of Marsaxlokk! 

It was a perfect picture postcard setting! The scores of tiny colourful boats bobbed on the tranquil sea. An old tower was visible in the distance. We learnt that the tower was called Fort Lucian and built-in 1610. A short stroll along the harbour is delightful to observe the local fishermen and their colourful tiny boats called 'luzzu'. There was a huge flea market where the crowd was slowly building up. Local produce like jams, honey, traditional clothes and much more.

The local fishermen were displaying their catch for people to buy.

There were a number of small local eateries offering seafood, including octopus. Italian fare and traditional Maltese food were also available. Sometimes, the restaurants tend to be crowded on Sundays and one may need to reserve as the number of regular restaurants are not many!

It was a great experience to see the traditional fishing village coming to life in a distant corner of Malta. Among other attractions is a Parish church that has a beautiful interior and magnificent paintings.

After spending a couple of hours we turned back with memories of this quiet haven etched forever! The market is not to be missed when visiting Malta!

PS: Images kind courtesy Google

The Legendary beauty of Chittorgarh and Udaipur

 

Tower of Victory- Chittorgarh

A treasure in form of my old notes appeared and I could relive my trip to Chittorgarh and Udaipur that I undertook several years back. The memories are as fresh as dewdrops on an autumn morning. I vividly remember scrambling for the Delhi Junction station to board the Chetak Express on the hot March afternoon. The train journeys were always eventful and after settling down we enjoyed the scenic views as the train rumbled through villages of Haryana to enter into the vast expanses of sand of Rajasthan. We slept off at night to wake up with the start as the train had arrived in Chittorgarh. 

It was rather early so after having a freshly brewed tea, I headed for the town as, we had not booked our accommodation. Just a little distance away was the quiet Circuit House. There was thick foliage all around and after a bit of small talk with the caretaker, I managed to get the place for a day! A perfect place for a short stay! We settled down and after refreshing ourselves we headed for the town. An autorickshaw which had a strange look appeared. I managed to hire him for half a day to visit all the places well worth a visit. The rickshaw was new and could seat almost 6-8 people. The driver of the rickshaw was a good guide who kept us entertained with amusing tales of the city and was equally at home with the history of the city. We had reached the foothill with a gradual ascent. After a short climb, we arrived at the fort. It was a huge place with a number of monuments and temples within its perimeter. The sight of hundreds of long-tailed langurs was a surprise but they were friendly and harmless. Our first halt was the Kumbh Shyam Temple which served as a private praying place of the legendary devotee Meera Bai. It is said that she was offered a cup of poison at the place by her brother in law, which turned into nectar!  As we stepped out of the temple the sight of huge Jain temples awaited us. The Jain temples were constructed by the supportive Rajput rulers and adorn the fort till to date. A little distance from these temples is the Ranthambore or the Tower of Victory. A huge edifice the tall structure stands majestically and is also known as Vijay Stambha. It was constructed in 1448 AD by Rana Kumbha to commemorate the victory over invading armies led by Mahmud Khilji. It is nine-storey high and has a narrow flight of about 150 steps. The view from the top is beautiful beyond words.

Next, we came to the Rani Padmavati Palace an outstanding specimen of architecture. It was the home of Rani Padmini or Padmavati who was a flawless beauty. It is said that the reflection of her image in the pond of Jal Mahal had attracted Khilji. Stories abound and the famous movie 'Padmavati' was shot to recreate the legend in 2017.

After immersing in the history of this UNESCO World Heritage site we returned to the town to enjoy the traditional Rajasthani food of dal, chapati, aloo matar, and buttermilk having all the spicy flavours of the region. In the evening we went for a stroll to find an unusual sight of a child being carried on a horse cart with ladies singing in colourful attire, accompanying him. We learnt later that he was being taken for tonsuring the head( Mundan ceremony). It is these traditions that make our country unique. The Padmavati park and a nearby market were agog with activity. The water in the pond was so clear that we could see the water snakes in it! It was time to return back to the Circuit House for a nights rest.

We woke up very early to board the Chetak Express at the crack of dawn once again to head for another pearl, Udaipur. We arrived in Udaipur and the next action was to book the return journey two days later as there was no internet those days. I stepped out of the station only to find a small Army Unit across the road where the kind Officer Commanding provided me with lovely accommodation for our stay! A huge room where more than ten people could stay. A luxury I never expected. The food was extremely good and after slumber, in the afternoon we headed for the town to explore Hathipole and Surajpole market. The place is famous for the traditional artwork where my little daughter and wife purchased the traditional 'Lehanga sets'. The nearby Mohanlal Sukhadia circle park had come alive with lights in the evening. It was a day full of activities crammed in a time capsule.

Maharana Pratap  Monument-Haldighati

We woke up early next morning to head for Nathdwara and Eklingji the temple towns famous for Lord Krishna's temple and the Jain temple respectively After reaching the little town of Nathdwara we saw the grinding stones made of gold and silver and a well full of 'ghee'. The aroma of the 'prasad' an offering for the lord was overpowering. we had the 'darshan' and were almost knocked down in the melee of the surging crowd. I got separated from my wife only to find her half an hour later outside the temple gate. The beauty of the temple is seen to be believed and the priests call for the lord as if he was a child, to return to have his food! On our way back the bus took us through ' Haldighati' where the King Rana Pratap fought the battle with Akbar's army in 1576AD. The time we went there was a bloom of roses in the month of 'Chaitra' and the air was filled with the aroma, where once the rivers of blood had flown. A statue of Maharana Pratap mounted on the legendary horse Chetak adorns the place now.

City Palace Udaipur

Udaipur is also known for the lakes and the visit to Pichola lake, the City Palace, Saheliyon ki Badi, Fateh Sagar Lake that we explored deserve another post to relive the beauty of the place. Udaipur has so much beauty and richness that its splendour can only be assimilated after a visit and no amount of words can cover its beauty fully.

Jagdish Temple-Udaipur

A fun-filled trip was just the beginning of many more joyous journeys that lay ahead.

PS - All pics are mine

The Exotic East- Abode of the Clouds

 

Kamakhya Temple Gauhati

The daybreak in Kolkata was very action-packed. We had to board the Kanchenjunga Express from the Sealdah station at 6.30 AM so we were seen off at the station by our relatives with whom we had spent the best of times in exploring the 'city of joy'. We passed by the Mother Teresa's abode The House of Missionaries of Charity on the JC Bose Road where she was residing. A feeling of peace prevailed at this hour on an otherwise busy road during the day. The rush at the platform was chaotic as the announcements over the PA systems kept piercing through the din. At the precise time, the train rolled out of the platform.

Umananda or Peacock Island Gauhati

After about 20 minutes of crawling, it halted at Dakshineswar station. It brought back memories of a day trip we had taken to visit during our stay. It has twelve shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva and is an important landmark as Kali temple.  After a brief halt, the onward journey continued through the scenic Sunderbans delta interlaced with small streams, groves of coconut and bananas and miles of paddy cultivated green fields.  It passed through small towns of Bardhaman, Shantiniketan, New Farakka and Malda.  The train kept kissing the Bangladesh border and several vendors of smuggled goods kept pedalling their wares ranging from Chinese pens, watches, cameras and other electronic goods. The day wore on as we enjoyed our packed meal as the sunset in the west, rather early. The night passed away quietly and when I woke up, the train was entering Rangiya, as it drizzled. We had entered Assam and were just a little short of reaching our destination. The lush green and incessant rain had now taken over completely. It was very soothing. After a few minutes, the train reached Kamakhiya. The platform was barely visible in the sea of saffron-clad sadhus, who were perhaps returning after visiting the sacred temple of Sati, a famous Shakti peeth.  Finally, we were at Gauhati. I enquired about the Army Transit Mess and was informed that it was across the road. In the next half an hour we were comfortably settled in a room that overlooked the busy street. During the day we explored the beautiful town and walked along the Brahmaputra that resembles a sea! The far end of the other bank was not visible. The smallest island in the world with Umananda temple is located in the midst of the stream. The place has a famous Shiva temple and is also known for a big population of Golden Langurs.

Next morning we explored the Zoological garden that is home to several species of wildlife and rare birds. It is spread over a huge area and the fresh air and deep foliage of trees make it a perfect getaway. We were informed that the Kaziranga and Manas Sanctuaries were inaccessible due flooding so we could not visit these. The public transport comprising of rickshaws and buses is a cheap and easy way to go around. We headed for the Kamakhaya temple the next day. It has six beehive-shaped domes. It is known as the spot where the groin of Sati fell when her body that was being carried by Lord Shiva was pierced by the Sudarshan Chakra of Lord Vishnu. The temple is also known for rituals like black magic. The scenic panoramic views all around the temple are unforgettable.

We continued our onward march to explore the far east. The day we planned to leave for Shillong a strike was called crippling all modes of transport. Undeterred my wife managed to get the tickets for a lone bus heading for Shillong. The journey through the verdant hills was a visual delight with steep hills and valleys. It took five hours, almost two hours beyond the normal driving time. By 2 PM we were in Shillong. We were booked for our stay at the Army's Holiday Home for the next couple of days and were ensconced in the comfort within an hour. After relaxing for the rest of the day when we woke up it was a treat to see the plum trees laden with fruit that we had failed to notice on our arrival. There were ten cottages and around each was a garden of its own with all hues of flowers. As we started walking towards the town, we were accosted by a small group of boys selling a strange nut resembling a miniature coconut. It was a betel nut, we learnt later! We explored the city and the Lady Hydari Park which is extremely beautiful. 

Mawsami Caves Cheerapunji

On the final day of our stay, we headed for Cheerapunji, the place that experiences the highest rainfall. Often the clouds would enter the bus and make the road disappear ahead of us. Among the things that make the place famous are a number of waterfalls like Mawsami, Nohkalikai and more. From Mawisami waterfalls one can get a glimpse of the Bangladesh border town Sylhet. There are beautiful stalactite and stalagmite caves in Mawisami which have the far end in Bangladesh.  The novelty of enjoying the most pristine environment with frequent rains was almost unbelievable.  We had a brief halt at the Ramakrishna mission at Cheerapunji and also had a glimpse of Chera bazaar. The Khasi traditional art and fruits are visible in abundance here. The sight of a freshly butchered animal was, however, very grisly and is a common occurrence in these parts.

Ward Lake, Shillong

Our last stop was the Ward's Lake in the midst of Shillong and is endowed with cobbled walkways lush gardens and flower beds. A small wooden bridge on the pond is ideal to feed fish. The place is a popular spot on weekends and gets crowded. 

No trip is complete without flavouring the foods and local shopping centres. Iewduh and Police Bazar in Shillong are a shoppers paradise. Handwoven shawls, orange honey, bamboo products, black mushrooms and Khasi dresses are ideal picks besides pineapples, oranges and other fruits.

A trip to the abode of clouds 'Meghalaya' was not only fulfilling but making me aware of the beauty that lies even at the farthest corner of our country. The people are warm and friendly and the air is so fresh that the best perfumes will pale in its fragrance.

PS- This was the second post on my visit to East India a couple of years back. Pics kind courtesy Google

The Exotic East- Kolkata and Beyond

Traditional Bengal attaire

 As the days now drag into months the restrictions on travel bring forth a plethora of memories and the never-ending thirst to explore keeps getting stronger.  Sometimes, the treasure of old notes taken during the extensive travels bring back vivid memories. One such memorable trip was undertaken in the early 1990s to explore the Eastern part of the country.

During the month of June, the journey commenced from New Delhi by the train. The bookings were all done well in advance as getting reservations has remained a challenge notwithstanding the surge in the number of trains. I had booked an entire trip from Delhi to Kolkata, and onwards to Gauhati and Shillong which was a no mean feat in the absence of internet. I had spent more than two hours to get the reservations at the New Delhi Railway Station. So armed with the bookings, and our luggage we boarded the train from New Delhi for Howarh on the D day. No trip would ever be complete without a quick visit to Higginbothams, the bookstall on the platform. The evening newspaper, a magazine for wife and a new comic for the daughter, would provide respite on the long journey.

Amidst all the din on the platform and the coolies quickly dumping the luggage on board the moving train, heckling with the customers, we finally bid adieu to Delhi. After settling down a quick cup of hot tea provided the greatest relief. Around night the train reached Aligarh and it was time to unpack the homemade dinner of pooris, vegetable and pickles. The train gathered speed and tore through the night while we slumbered on the sleeper. The noise of a small baby crying from the nearby seat woke me up. I looked at the watch and it was almost 5 AM. The train was entering the Mughalsarai ( now renamed as Deen Dayal Upadhaya Junction, don't know how many people know it). It is a very important junction where trains coming from major destinations from all directions converge. After a little longish halt, the train then moved into Bihar and the train stations in route were full of people and several times people gatecrashed into the compartment. The scenery changed to soothing green as the train entered W Bengal. There was a constant downpour till the train reached Kolkata,' the city of joy'.

Traditional Bengali Food

The ride from Howarh to Hungerford Street was eventful as a sea of humanity greeted us everywhere. The Howrah bridge was majestic as ever as was the river Hooghly! The BBD Baug, Writers Building  Eden Gardens, and Park Street bring back the memories of 'Feluda' stories of Satyajit Ray. The city has so much to offer that a lifetime is too short to experience it all. The next few days were spent visiting the Victoria, Birla Planetarium, the Science Museum, Kali Bari, the amusement park in Salt Lake, New Market, Garihat, and a ride in the metro! A morning walk-in the Elliot Park adjacent to Victoria and surroundings gives a glimpse of how a common man enjoys small pleasures of life! Sipping tea in small earthenware cups, eating 'Moorhi' and 'spicy singhara' egg rolls' to the more affluent eating' English breakfast ' in the 'Flurrys' are sights to remember. On the way back umpteen shops of 'Sandesh','Kheer Kadam' and Rosgollos are as much in demand as the sweets of 'Park Sweets','Balram Malik' et al. The unique identity of Kolkata would need reams of paper to describe the pleasures. One can get the best 'Chinese ' and 'Marwari' food in the city besides food from all over. One need not have deep pockets to survive in the city. 

The modern face of Kolkata

A non-stop fun at Kolkata was to be followed with a next long journey by train to Gauhati, and a trip  through the tea gardens of Assam and experiencing the incessant rains of Meghalaya will follow in the next post

Down the Memory Lane- Exploring Kochi

Bolgatty Island

I have never planned a trip at such short notice like this one! The smog in Delhi had forced the closure of schools in the NCR. andy wife and I who are now teachers got an opportunity to pack our bags for the long weekend, It was with a bit of some mental exercise and rummaging through the airlines and travel site that by afternoon we were good to go, The late afternoon flight to Kochi ended the suspense, as we happily boarded the flight leaving behind plumes of smog that had engulfed my once clean Delhi! By evening we were able to breathe the fresh whiff of the sea breeze as the flight descended on the Cochin International Airport. It was heartening to see the place as this is the only airport that is fully powered by solar light to meet it's operational requirements.

The hotel at M G Road was comfortable and by the time we settled, it was night. I was lost in the dreams of the first time as 20 odd years old I had arrived here to begin my professional career at the Naval Academy. As I woke up in the morning, it felt so good to see the ships moored around Thevara bridge from where the train had chugged into the Cochin Harbour Terminus almost 42 years ago when I had first come to the city. It was still fresh in my mind. So many times I had seen the divers from the Diving School assembled on the bridge to dive headlong into the fast-flowing waters. Their instructors awaited on the rubber Gemini boats to haul them out.

We managed to enter the Naval Base from the main gate after producing my Armed Forces Identity Card. Though there were several new constructions, the intrinsic character had not changed much. The beautiful lush green manicured gardens, the dense foliage of the swaying coconut trees provided the relief to the eyes that had been struggling in the fumes of Delhi till the day before. Every morning we used to run around the base during the training time. A nice cup of tea at the canteen had retained the flavour.

Chinese Fishing Nets

Later in the day, we headed to Fort Kochi and started to explore the place. The first halt was at the Chinese Fishing Nets where the traditional nets are used to catch the local fish. It is interesting to see the operation of lowering and after some time hauling the nets with the catch. Egrets and other birds are waiting to make their selection before any humans can lay their hands on. 

Basilica of Santa Cruz

Within short walking distance is the Basilica of Santa Cruz, Maritime Museum and Indo Dutch museum. The church has lovely interiors and was built by Portuguese in 1558. It is one of the eight sacred edifices in Kerala. I had seen some of these places on an earlier visit too.

Naval Academy Sailing Camp Nov 1977

Next day, we took a boat ride to explore the Bolgatty Island. Whilst training at the Naval Academy, we had gone for a 10-day sailing regatta on sailboats around the backwaters. We had stopped over at night at this very island and I almost drowned when I slipped on a rock and crashed into the waters. The memory still sends a chill down my spine.

The Bolgatty Island Resort

On the very spot today there is the Bolgatty Palace Island Resort a sprawling property which has all possible luxuries. I stood transfixed for a while wondering how the winds of change hade transformed the place. We then went to Cherai Beach almost 25km away on Vypen Island. It is perhaps one of the cleanest beaches I have come across recently and is not to be missed.

Our final day was spent in exploring the Mattancherry Island well known for the Dutch Palace and the Jewish Synagogue. The adjacent  Jewish town is a unique settlement of the jews. A huge spice market is also an interesting place well worth a visit. Among the modern places that one must experience in Kochi is a Metro train ride and visit Lulu-one of the largest malls in India.

It was a trip which will go down the memory as one of the best trip planned at super short notice. It gave me an opportunity to revive the old memories of time spent at Kochi.

PS: All pics are mine