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Sunday, April 30, 2017

The Traboules of Lyon


We meandered through the cobbled streets of Vieux( Old) Lyon in France in search of the’ Traboules’ as droplets of rain descended from the heavens. It was a bit cold although, the flavor of the velvety ice cream at the Nardone (one of the best ice cream in the town) had still not left the taste buds. The old Saint-Jean church provided a temporary shelter as we stood on the archway, ‘wishing rain, rain go away…”. After a little shower, the weather cleared and we looked around for the elusive Traboules!

Then we chanced upon one, as we walked a little distance. The word ‘traboule’ is a corruption of the Latin,trans-ambulare', or to ‘pass through’. Between the courtyards and through buildings, secret alleyways, staircases, and passages, these provided a safe and efficient passage to the silk workers of that era, to get their wares unhindered to and from the market. Many of these secret passages worm through several buildings, forming secret passageways. These were built in the 4th century, to allow direct access to town’s fresh water source, then the long winding streets provided. At one time there were more than 400 of these around the old city of which now only about 40 are open to the general public to visit. The ones open to the public have a seal outside the gate, while those that are private and inaccessible are generally behind the locked doors. In the 1990’s the Lyon Department of Urban Planning, started restoration and maintenance to encourage the visitors to have a glimpse of these.

Around the 1830s there was about 25000 silk looms around the city of Lyon. Most of the silk weavers would meet at these ‘traboules’ or the courtyards. These workers rose for a rebellion when their existence was at stake due to the advent of new technology, extortionist merchants, and economic uncertainties. They picked up the weapons to get better wages. Their indefatigable spirit of ‘live free working or die fighting’ is all evident in the stories that abound.

Going through the Traboules is an unforgettable experience as one goes through the narrow alleyways and staircases sometimes even dungeons and very small cramped rooms. A new world of Gothic galleries, ancient wells, fountains, staircases, and wells opens up as one goes around these miracles of medieval engineering. Since most of these ‘traboules’ are private properties, one is expected to maintain decorum and not to create noise, while exploring them.


During the Second World War, these taboule's provided a perfect escape and hiding place to the soldiers to escape the terror unleashed by the ‘Gestapo’. They provided a perfect getaway from the German raids, and safe passage  and shortcuts to give the pursuant a slip. 
The Longest Traboule

La Longue Traboule is the longest one in the town. There are conducted tours too, but with a little bit of detective work by identifying shield shaped bronze plaques, one can find these in the Vieux Lyon area. The effort and discovery of one is a thrilling experience that gets embedded in the memory for all times to come.

PS- All pictures are mine.

12 comments:

  1. Though i've heard of the the town, never knew about its tunnels.

    Glad to have read this. The history is indeed intriguing...how the craftsmen of those times went about conducting their trades.

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    1. Thanks for reading, Alok! The place leaves you awestruck:)

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  2. Very interesting account,never heard of this feature.How the architecture differs from place to place.

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    1. True, the wonders that unfold in new places often leaves me amazed!

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  3. So much history. And so much thrill for a traveler. Such places evoke a strong sense of adventure in me. We will surely keep this town in our France itinerary.

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    1. The feeling is like a kid exploring a novelty!Must see this place Saru, when you get an opportunity! You are among the few who read and constantly learn and write to well:)

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  4. Now this was a true adventure ride. So jealous of you, Rahul. :)

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    1. Thanks Rachna, that you enjoyed the adventure story!

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  5. Thanks for sharing details about this truly amazing place, would definitely like to visit it.

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    1. Thank you Rama for reading! The place is definitely well worth a visit.

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  6. News to me. That is so interesting. And nice to see that these passages are still open and looking pretty good. :)

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  7. It's an exciting experience to explore these!

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