Butter Cookies to Neonlit Skyline- Dreamy Shinjuku

 

Shin Okubo Korea Town

The day begins with a leisurely walk from our apartment in Shin-Okubo, Tokyo’s vibrant Koreatown. The streets here buzz with early deliveries to Korean BBQ joints, the scent of bubbling kimchi jjigae in the air, and the occasional K-pop anthem escaping a shopfront. It’s a neighborhood full of flavor and life, but just a few blocks away, Shinjuku rises—bolder, louder, and endlessly layered.

All Seasons Cafe, Shinjuku

Our first stop is All Seasons Coffee, a minimalist gem tucked off a quiet side street. Inside, sunlight pours in gently, and the aroma of hand-drip coffee fills the air. Their butter cookies—light, golden, and just the right amount of sweet—make for a slow and thoughtful start. It’s the kind of spot where time seems to stretch, even as the city rushes past outside.

At Shinjuku Chuo Park

Refreshed, we wander toward Shinjuku Chuo Park, a calming stretch of green nestled among the concrete. 

At Juniso Kumano Jinja Shrine

Locals stroll, kids chase pigeons, and amid it all stands the Juniso Kumano Jinja Shrine, peaceful and rooted in centuries of history. You can feel the shift here—the quiet pride of a Tokyo that remembers.

Not far off, the Nakamuraya Salon Museum of Art offers a contemplative pause. Once a hub for thinkers, revolutionaries, and artists, its walls now tell quieter stories through early 20th-century Japanese paintings, sketches, and photographs.

At Mos Burger

Lunchtime draws us to Mos Burger, where the vegan burger surprises with its hearty texture and deep umami flavor. It’s quick, but crafted with the same care that defines much of Japanese cuisine—even its fast food feels intentional.

The Storytelling Theater

In the mid-afternoon, the Storytelling Theater invites us into a different kind of performance—rakugo or modern monologues that mix humor, drama, and the cultural echoes of old Tokyo. Even without fluency in Japanese, the passion and rhythm are universal.

Hanazono Inari Shrine

By early evening, we reach the Hanazono Inari Shrine, lanterns beginning to glow beneath its crimson torii gates. There’s something quietly cinematic about this transition into dusk—ritual meeting modernity in the middle of the city.

Tokyo Metropolital Government Building

As the skyline darkens, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building calls. From its free observation deck, we watch the city switch on—an endless sprawl of light, motion, and energy. If the sky’s clear, even Mount Fuji makes a ghostly appearance on the horizon.

The Cocoon Tower

Descending into the neon world, architectural marvels abound. The Cocoon Tower, twisting upward in smooth curves, 

A 3 D Digital Hoarding

contrasts sharply with the dazzling 3D digital hoarding, where animated illusions leap off massive 

billboards. 

Godzilla Building and Gracery Hotel

Then there’s the unforgettable Godzilla Building, with the kaiju himself peering menacingly over Toho Cinema. A stay at the Gracery Hotel, right beneath his jaw, promises a night of quirky Tokyo charm.

The Golden Gai

By now, Shinjuku is fully awake. We drift into Kabukicho, its signs glowing like stained glass in motion. The air is thick with laughter, sizzling street food, and the pulse of nightlife. But just off to the side lies a hidden treasure: Golden Gai.

Golden Gai is a world of its own—six narrow alleys packed with over 200 micro-bars, each the size of a walk-in closet and each with its own story. One bar plays punk vinyl, another screens old Kurosawa films. Locals, artists, expats, and curious travelers mingle here shoulder to shoulder, sipping whiskey or highballs, sharing stories across language barriers. It’s intimate, gritty, and utterly unforgettable—a perfect counterpoint to Kabukicho’s razzle-dazzle.

From a peaceful morning walk in Shin-Okubo to butter cookies, shrines, burgers, skyline views, and tiny bars with massive character, Shinjuku unfolds like a perfectly written novel. And somewhere between its still moments and blazing lights, it tells the story of Tokyo itself. Will continue with more adventures in Japan in the forthcoming post

PS  All pics are mine